Out of TownOut of TownPhoto: Nikolai Bulykin, CC BY-SA 4.0 · source
Medeu is called the "factory of records" for good reason. At an altitude of 1,691 meters, the thin mountain air and specific weather conditions have allowed speed skaters to set world records one after another for many years. The ice field covers 10,500 square meters. All around it rises a wall of the Zailiysky Alatau mountains, a sight you won't find at any city skating rink. Getting there is straightforward: bus number 12 departs from Almaty-2 station through the city center and climbs directly to Medeu, taking 30–40 minutes; payment is by card or through Onay only. Important to know before your visit: as of March 2025, the rink is closed for major reconstruction that is expected to last until the end of 2027—ice skating is not currently possible. However, the gorge itself remains open: hikers can freely climb here, and the cable car up to Shymbulak continues to operate.
The site was named after Medeu Pussurmanov, a notable figure from the era of the city of Verny, an elder of the third aul of the Maloalmatinsky volost. He was one of the first to settle in this picturesque gorge and built three wooden cabins here for his family's winter residence. Medeu Pussurmanov was a well-known entrepreneur, patron of local schools, and participated in the greening of the city. Construction of the skating rink began in autumn 1949. The first official all-union competitions took place on 4–5 February 1951, and on opening day alone, skaters set two world records and six all-union records. Under the ice field, 170 kilometers of metal pipes were laid for cooling. Ice lasted for up to eight months of the year. Until 1970, the ice remained natural. Then the USSR Council of Ministers decided to build a full-fledged high-altitude stadium with artificial tracks. The ceremonial opening of the new rink took place on 28 December 1972. From 1952 to 1988, skaters set 320 world records here across all distances, for both men and women. The rink quickly surpassed the famous European rinks of Davos and Inzell in record count—these had previously been considered the world's leading speed skating venues. Athletes unanimously called the Medeu ice the fastest in the world: the rare mountain air and pure glacial water did their work. Over the years, it also hosted the 1974 European Women's Championship, the 1988 World All-Around Championship, the 2011 Asian Games, and the 2017 Universiade. The rink underwent further renovations later. In 2001–2002, old metal pipes were replaced with plastic ones. In 2008–2009, another major reconstruction took place, after which the stands were reduced to a capacity of 8,100 seats instead of the previous 12,500. In 2008, the complex received the status of a monument of republican architectural significance.
The rink is protected not only by its fame but also by a dam higher up the gorge. It was built between 1966 and 1980 at an altitude of 1,750 meters. Its purpose was to hold back mudflows that descend from the glaciers. On 15 July 1973, the dam faced its most serious test. A powerful mudflow descended the slopes of the Tuyksu glacier. In force, it exceeded the catastrophe of 1921—which once destroyed a quarter of Alma-Ata—by a factor of four. The still-unfinished dam took the blow. For three hours the flow attempted to breach it, but failed—the city was spared. Today, viewing platforms are set up on the dam, and it forms part of a route worth walking for the views of the Small Almaty gorge alone.
The famous Stairway of Health also leads to the dam—842 steps upward with rest areas along the way. Every summer a race is held on it, open to anyone who wishes to participate, not just athletes. People climb to the top for training and for the gorge views alike. From Medeu, a cable car continues up to Shymbulak: an eight-person cabin takes you there in 15–20 minutes. Authorities promise to preserve the rink's historic appearance after the current reconstruction and to add new refrigeration equipment with ice monitoring sensors. For those planning a visit during winter 2026–2027, it's worth checking the current status in advance—part of the territory is still under construction.