Mountains & WalksMountains & WalksPhoto: Amarkiev, CC BY-SA 4.0 · source
The ascent to Kumbel can be made either through the Kok-Zhailau plateau or through Gorelnik Gorge, where you can rest at waterfalls along the way. Both routes converge at the rock formation called "Three Brothers" and then follow a single ridge to the summit. The complete loop is 19–28 km and takes 10–12 hours. This is not a route for your first mountain hike, but rather for those who already know what it's like to walk all day. There are no technically difficult sections; the ridge is gentle with only minor ascents. However, the route is long and demands endurance. Entry to the territory is paid, accessed through the Kok-Zhailau ecopost, but no guide is required. Summer is the easiest season to hike; in winter, the slopes are covered with snow and the route becomes a much more serious undertaking.
The name "Kumbel" translates from Kazakh as "sandy spine" or "sandy ridge." Unlike neighboring peaks, Kumbel has no glaciers or perpetual snow, which is why it's also known by the Russian name Sukhoy Ridge. The actual height of the summit is approximately 3230 meters, although the sign at the peak mistakenly indicates 3600. Tourists have noted this inaccuracy for many years, but it has never been corrected. The rock formation "Three Brothers"—three stone pillars taller than a person standing on the ridge—is also part of this story: from a distance, they indeed resemble three figures roped together. The Kok-Zhailau plateau itself, which is the most common starting point for the route, has been at the center of heated disputes more than once. In 2011, authorities decided to build a ski resort here with 65 km of slopes, and in 2014, over a thousand hectares of national park land were reclassified for development. UNESCO, the German nature conservation organization NABU, and the IUCN World Commission on Protected Areas all opposed the project. Environmentalists feared that construction would irreversibly damage one of the few remaining stretches of wilderness within easy reach of the city. By 2017, the development area had been reduced by 90%, but the question of Kok-Zhailau's future remains unresolved.
Kok-Zhailau translates to "green pasture," and the name is well-deserved. Here grow tall Tian Shan spruce trees with a strong coniferous scent, alongside wild Siversia apples, tulips, and medicinal herbs. The area is considered one of the most biodiverse in the Almaty region. At different times, snow leopards, brown bears, lynxes, wild boars, and wolves have been spotted here. Among birds, over a hundred nesting species have been recorded, with 11 of them listed in the Red Book of Kazakhstan. On the approach to the summit itself, you'll encounter clusters of large rocks that from a distance resemble false peaks. Don't be surprised if you mistake one of them for the summit prematurely. From the ridge, you can see the peaks of Titov, Tereshkova, Talgar, and Nursultan—the entire Maloalmatinsky spur unfolds before you like the palm of your hand.